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KMID : 0604520070330030203
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2007 Volume.33 No. 3 p.203 ~ p.208
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New Whitening Agent From Pimpinella brachycarpa
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Kim Jin-Hwa
Sim Gwan-Sub
Lee Dong-Hwan
Lee Geun-Soo
Lee Bum-Chun
Pyo Hyeong-Bae
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Abstract
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To develop a new whitening agent for cosmetics from natural products, Pimpinella brachcarpa was selected for its inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Crude ethanolic extract of P. brachycarpa and its four fractions-hexane, ethyl acetate(EtOAc), butanol and aqueous were evaluated for antioxidative effects and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. To elucidate the mechanism of active compounds of P. brachycarpa, we investigated the changes in protein level of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using Western blotting and the changes in mRNA level of tyrosinase using RT-PCR technique. Following UV irradiation, expression of ET-1 in HaCaT keratinocytes was measured by quantitative enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using human ET-1 antibody. Crude ethanolic extract of P. brachycarpa and its four fractions-hexane, EtOAc, butanol and aqueous had free radical scavenging effect by 87.2, 2.5, 97.2, 80.5, 49.8% at 100 and tyrosinase inhibitory effect by 18.3, 15.1, 55.4, 13.1, 0 % at 100 . P. brachycarpa EtOAc fraction significantly inhibited melanin production in B16 melanoma cells. Treatment with P. brachycarpa extract for 72 h suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin up to 58 % at 100 . Especially, the EtOAc fraction of P. brachycarpa reduced the tyrosinase activity and tyrosinase expression in B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. mRNA levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1 were markedly reduced by the EtOAc fraction of P. brachycarpa. Moreover, at the concentrations of of the fraction, the production of UV-induced ET-1 in HaCaT keratinocytes(24 h after 8 UVB irradiation) was reduced about 40%(p<0.05). P. brachycarpa could be used as a new natural skin-whitening agent due to the inhibitory effect of on melanin biosynthesis and endothelin-1 expression.
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KEYWORD
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pimpinella brachycarpa, melanogenesis, whitening, tyrosinase, endothelin
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